Fritzlar
Coat of arms	Location
	Fritzlar (Germany)
Administration
Country	Germany
State	Enter Bundesland
District	Enter Kreis
Time zone	CET/CEST (UTC+1/+2)

Coordinates:

Fritzlar is a small German town (pop. 15,000) in the Schwalm-Eder district in northern Hesse, 160 km (100 miles) north of Frankfurt, with a storied history. It can reasonably be argued that the town is the site where the Christianization of northern Germany (north and east of the Roman Limes) began and the birthplace of the German empire as a political entity.

The town has a medieval center ringed by a wall with numerous watch towers. Thirty-seven meters (121 ft) high, the Grauer Turm ("Grey Tower") is the highest remaining urban defense tower in Germany. The city hall, first documented in 1109, with a stone relief of St. Martin, the town's patron saint, is the oldest in Germany still in use for its original purpose. The Gothic church of the old Franciscan monastery is today the Protestant parish church, while its other buildings have been converted into a modern hospital. Many houses in the town center, notably around the market square, date from the 14th to 17th centuries and have been carefully maintained or restored. The town is dominated by the imposing Romanesque-Gothic cathedral from the 12th-14th centuries in the center of the old town.

Geography

Fritzlar lies in northern Hesse on north bank of the Eder river, south of the Habichtswald mountains and north of the Kellerwald mountains. The surrounding area is characterized by fertile farmland and many, mostly wooded basalt peaks, many of which are topped by mediaeval castles, or castle ruins. Examples of these can be found at Gudensberg, Homberg, Felsberg, Heiligenberg, Altenburg, Jesberg, and Naumburg, among others.

History

Thor's Oak and German Christianization

The cathedral stands at the site where the Anglo-Saxon missionary St. Boniface, apostle of the Germans, in 724 A.D. erected a chapel from the wood of an oak dedicated to Thor and sacred to the local German tribe, the Chatten/Chatti (ancestors of the Hessians). A year earlier, in 723, Boniface (then still known under his original name "Winfrid"), had Thor's Oak, one of the most important sacred sites of the Germans, felled to prove the "superiority" of the Christian god over Thor and the Germanic deities. According to St. Boniface's first biographer, his contemporary Saint Willibald, Boniface started to chop the oak down, when suddenly a great wind, as if by miracle, blew the ancient oak over. This event marked the beginning of the Christianization of German tribes and lands beyond the old Roman frontiers.

Boniface established the first bishopric in Germany outside the boundaries of the old Roman Empire on a hill (Büraburg) across the Eder river, but after the death of Witta, its first and only bishop, in 747 the bishopric was incorporated into the diocese (later archdiocese) of Mainz by Lullus, the disciple and successor of Boniface as archbishop of Mainz. The Benedictine monastery founded by Boniface in Fritzlar in 724 gained prominence as a center of religious and worldly learning under its abbot St. Wigbert, who built the original stone basilica of 732 at the site of Boniface's wooden chapel. In 782 Charles the Great (Charlemagne) granted it imperial protection and substantial territory, and this triggered the rapid development of the town. The monastery was converted into a canonic college (Chorherrenstift) in 1005, its members no longer living in monastic union and simplicity, but maintaining their own, and generally rather well-to-do, households. Several imposing stone residences (Curias) built by wealthy canons during the 14th century survive to this day in the old part of the town. The canonic college was dissolved only in 1803.

Birthplace of the German Empire

Located at the crossroads of several important trade routes and site of an imperial residence since Charlemagne, Fritzlar was a frequent site of royal visits and of assemblies and synods of the German princes and church leaders during the early Middle Ages. Undoubtedly the most important of these was the Reichstag of 919 when Henry I ("Henry the Fowler"), duke of Saxony, was elected King of the Germans to succeed Charlemagne's Frankish successors on the throne of what had become known as the East Frankish Empire. This event marked the end of bitter rivalry between the two large German tribes of the Franks and the Saxons and the beginning of the German Empire that lasted until the Napoleonic wars. King Conrad I, duke of Franconia, had died in December 918 without a son and urged his brother, margrave Eberhard, who was to succeed him as Duke of Franconia, to nominate Henry as king, although they had been at odds with each other from 912 to 915 over the title to lands in Thuringia. Conrad's choice was respected by the Reichstag of 919, where Henry was proclaimed king by the leaders of the Franks and Saxons. Duke Burkhard I of Swabia quickly swore allegiance as well, but Duke Arnulf of Bavaria did not submit to Henry until the latter advanced with an army into Bavaria in 921.

Conrad himself had risen to the position of duke of Franconia only after defeating the rival Babenberg counts in a battle near Fritzlar in 906, in which his father, Conrad the Elder, was killed.

Developments during the Middle Ages

In 1079 Fritzlar ceased to be a crown possession when it was gifted to the archbishop of Mainz by Emperor Henry IV in the aftermath of his submission to the Pope at Canossa. It thus became a pivotal pillar in the long-lasting feuds between Mainz and the landgraves of Thuringia and Hesse for territorial supremacy in northern Hesse.

Located in the border area between Frankish and Saxon territories and, following Martin Luther's Reformation, a Roman-Catholic enclave owned by the Archbishop of Mainz in the midst of protestant Hesse, the town was frequently embattled, by Saxons and Franks, by Protestant and Catholic princes, and repeatedly sacked and rebuilt.

The first major devastation occurred in 774, during Charlemagne's Saxon Wars. While the king was in Italy, the Saxons invaded Hesse and besieged Büraburg, where the population of Fritzlar had sought refuge. Failing to take the fortress, the Saxons destroyed Fritzlar, but not St. Wigbert's stone basilica. This gave rise to the legend that two angels had appeared to chase away the invaders and protect the church.

The next happened in 1079. Emperor Henry IV, who frequently resided in Fritzlar, was faced with an insurrection led by the pretender king Rudolf of Swabia (Rudolf of Rheinfelden), who had been supported by the Pope. Having submitted to the Pope at Canossa in 1077, Henry had gone to Fritzlar. A papal legate was not able to arrange an end to the dispute, and in early 1079 an army of Saxons, partisans of Rudolf, attacked Henry in Fritzlar. He fled, and town and church were sacked and destroyed.

Between about 1085 and 1118, a new and larger basilica was built at the site of St. Wigbert's church. It was the site of the imperial synod of 1118 at which the papal interdict of Henry V, who again had opposed the pope on the matter of investiture of bishops, was announced and ratified and where Saint Norbert of Xanten, founder of the order of the Premonstratensians (Norbertines) and later archbishop of Magdeburg, successfully defended himself against charges of heresy. At the same synod, prince-bishop Otto of Bamberg was suspended for having remained loyal to Henry V during his quarrels with the papacy.

This second basilica was radically reconstructed between 1180 and 1200, essentially in the form in which it is still found today, although a number of smaller additions and alterations have been made throughout the centuries since then. During the same period, from 1184 to 1196, the town was fortified by the construction of the first wall around its periphery.

The next devastating blow was the sack of the town by Thuringian landgrave Conrad in 1232, when much of the population was killed and the town plundered. Mainz responded by immediately rebuilding and further fortifying the town, adding numerous towers to the walls and building seven watch towers and fortified refuges on strategic hills in the surrounding countryside.

In the early 13th century, the Franciscans (Friars Minor) established a monastery in the town. They obtained permission to build their church and quarters directly up against the town wall, thereby obliterating the watch walk on the inside of the wall that was crucial for quickly moving defenders from one part of the wall to another. In exchange they had to agree to defend their part of the town's fortification in the event of a siege. The Franciscans were forced to leave when the Lutheran Reformation was introduced in 1522. Following the Counterreformation, Jesuits moved in in 1615, followed by the return of the Franciscans in 1619. The monastery was dissolved in 1811. Its splendid Gothic church, completed in 1244, today serves as the parish church for the town's Protestant Christians who purchased it in 1817/1824.

The Thirty Year War (1618-1648) inflicted serious damage on Fritzlar and the neighboring villages, culminating with an outbreak of the black plague. The town's population dropped from about 2000 to merely 600, and it took 200 years before the inhabitants again numbered 2000. During the Seven Years' War (1756-1763) the town was occupied by French troops and parts of its fortifications were destroyed, along with the vineyards on the steep slope above the Eder river.

In the early 18th century, the order of Ursuline nuns established a nunnery and school for girls.

Modern age

In 1803, when all ecclesiatic states in Germany were abolished, Fritzlar was incorporated, together with Naumburg, as the nominal Principality of Fritzlar into the Electorate (principality) of Hesse-Kassel (Kurhessen). In 1821 it became the administrative center of the district (Kreis) Fritzlar. Hesse-Kassel in turn was annexed by Prussia in 1866, following the Austro-Prussian War in which the Elector had sided with Austria. In 1932 the district was merged with the neighboring district of Homberg to form the district of Fritzlar-Homberg.

In 1974, the three districts of Fritzlar-Homberg, Melsungen and Ziegenhain were combined into the new district Schwalm-Eder, with its administrative seat in Homberg (Efze).

Today, Fritzlar is a service and market center for the surrounding area, with schools, hospital, and a sizeable military garrison with airfield.

Politics

Town council consists of 37 councillors. As of the last municipal election held on 26 March 2006, the seats are apportioned thus:

CDU	: 18 seats
SPD	: 13 seats
FWG (citizens' coalition)	: 3 seats
Greens	: 2 seats
FDP	: 1 seat

The town executive (Magistrat) consists of 10 members and the mayor. Three seats are held by the SPD, 4 by the CDU, and one seat each by the FWG, the FDP and the Greens.

Mayor Karl-Wilhelm Lange (CDU) was reëlected on 26 March 2006 with a 65.8% share of the vote. The independent candidate Hans Mertens got 34.2% of the vote.

Coat of arms

The civic coat of arms shows two red wheels joined by a cross of the same colour and the whole set from upper left to lower right (or upper right to lower left, heraldically speaking) on a silver background. As such, it bears a keen likeness to Mainz's civic coat of arms, simply having the colours reversed but showing the same "Double Wheel of Mainz", and this recalls the centuries-long allegiance that Fritzlar owed the Archbishopric of Mainz.

Town partnerships

• Burnham-on-Sea and Highbridge (civil parish), Somerset, United Kingdom
• Casina, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

External links

• Official web site of the town

•  • [ e] Towns and municipalities in the district of Schwalm-Eder
Bad Zwesten