Nicosia (Λευκωσία, Lefkoşa)
Skyline of Nicosia (Λευκωσία, Lefkoşa)
Seal
Location of Nicosia (Λευκωσία, Lefkoşa)
District	Nicosia District
Government
- Mayor	Eleni Mavrou
Population (2001-2005)
- City	47832 (Greek part)
- Urban	224,500 (Greek part) 85000 (Turkish part) 309,500 (Total)
Time zone	EET (UTC+2)
Website: www.nicosia.org.cy

Nicosia, known locally as Lefkosia or Lefkosha (Greek: Λευκωσία, Turkish: Lefkoşa), is the capital and largest city of Cyprus. It is located at .

Located on the Pedieos (Kanlidere) river and situated almost in the centre of the island, it is the seat of government as well as the main business centre. Nicosia is the center and capital of the (Nicosia District). Despite the recent symbolic gestures shown by both communities in removing small sections of the dividing wall, it still remains the only divided capital city in the world, with the northern (Turkish) and southern (Greek) portions divided by the "Green Line", a demilitarized zone maintained by the United Nations, although unlike Cold War East and West Berlin, few use the terms "North Nicosia" and "South Nicosia". After already being segregated to some degree from 1964, the 1974 Turkish invasion cut the capital in half. The Turkish Cypriots claim the northern half of Nicosia as the capital of an internationally unrecognized (except for Turkey) state known as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC).

The population of the part of the city under the control of the Republic of Cyprus is 270,000 (end of 2004), while a further 84,893 live in the Turkish zone. ^[1] Nicosia is a modern, dynamic capital with lots of shops, restaurants and entertainment. The city is a trade center and manufactures textiles, leather, pottery, plastic, and other products. Copper mines are nearby. Nicosia is the seat of the University of Cyprus (UCY) and of all the colleges and institutes of Republic of Cyprus.

History

Main article: History of Nicosia

Nicosia was a city-state known as Ledra or Ledrae in ancient times. The king of Ledra, Onasagoras, was recorded as paying tribute to Esarhaddon of Assyria in 672 BC. Rebuilt by Lefkos, son of Ptolemy I around 300 BC, Ledra in Hellenic and Roman times was a small, unimportant town, also known as Lefkothea. By the time it received its first Christian bishop, Trifillios, in 348, the town was called Lefkousia or Ledri.

Still known as Lefkosia, the city became the island's capital around the 10th century. It had grown in importance because of threats to the coastal cities Paphos and Salamis, which made many people flee to the centrally located Lefkosia.

The seat of the Lusignan kings of Cyprus since 1192, it became a Venetian possession in 1489, and fell to the Ottoman Empire in 1571. Ledra is now the actual name of the most popular commercial street.

The exonym "Nicosia" appeared with the arrival of the Lusignans. The "Frankish" Crusaders either could not, or did not care to, pronounce the name Lefkosia, and tended to say "Nicosia". In this era of the Franks, the city expanded culturally, and in the 15th and 16th centuries, saw the erection of a number of palaces, mansions, churches and monasteries.

Some 20,000 residents died as a result of the Ottoman siege of 1570. Man-made and natural disasters further struck the city during the 19th century. The Turks crushed the 1821 anti-Ottoman revolt in blood.

Cholera hit the city in 1835, and fire destroyed large parts of Nicosia in 1857. The British Empire gained control over the island in 1878, with Nicosia serving as the capital of the new British colony.

Nicosia was the scene of extreme violence in the period just prior to Cypriot independence in 1960. Since the Greek supported coup and Turkish invasion which followed it in 1974, part of the city's northern sector has been inside the boundary of a United Nations Buffer Zone.

The tombs of the Lusignan kings are in the former Cathedral of St. Sophia, now a mosque in the northern sector.

The core of the city also has well-preserved Venetian fortifications, built in the 16th century, which encircle the old, medieval part of the city.

Government

As the capital of the Republic, Nicosia is Cyprus's political, economic and cultural head. Greater Nicosia is subdivided into seven municipalities, but the metropolitan authority is the Municipality of Nicosia itself – within whose boundaries the Constitution states that the main government buildings and headquarters must be situated. The other municipalities in the city are Strovolos, Lakatamia, Latsia, Aglandjia, Engomi and Agios Dhometios. According to the constitution of Cyprus Nicosia Municipality was divided into a Greek and Turkish sector with two Mayors: a representative of the Greek community which was the majority, and a second one representing the Turkish community. The Mayors and the members of the Council were appointed by the President of the Republic. Since 1986, the Mayors and members of the Council are elected. The Mayor and the Municipal Councilors are elected by direct popular suffrage but into separate ballots – one for the Mayor and the other for all the Councilors. Municipal elections are held every five years.

The Municipality of Nicosia is now headed by the Mayor, who is Eleni Mavrou (former lagilator of the communist party AKEL, supported by her own political party, socialist party EDEK and the Democratic Party and the council comprising of 26 councilors, one of who is Deputy Mayor. The Northern Sector has its own de facto municipality, but that municipality is not internationally recognized because it is part of the non-recognized TRNC. The Mayor and the Councilors exercise all the powers vested in them by the Municipal Corporation Law. Sub-committees consisting of members of the Municipal Council act only on an advisory level and according to the procedures and regulations issued by the Council.

The Mayor is the executive authority of the Municipality, exercising overall control and managing the Municipal Council. The Council is responsible for appointing personnel employed by the Municipality. All municipalities in the Republic of Cyprus are members of the Union of Cyprus Municipalities. The executive Committee is the governing organ of the Union. This Committee is appointed from among the representatives of the Municipalities, for a term of two and a half years. The Mayor of Nicosia is the President of the Union and the Chairman of the Executive Committee.

Mayors of Nicosia

Pre-Independence (1882-1949)

• Christodoulos Severis, 15 November 1882–31 July 1888.
• Achilleas Liassides, 1 August 1888–10 April 1906.
• Antonios Theodotou, 8 January 1888–10 April 1906.
• Mehmet Shevket Bey, 11 April 1908–31 March 1911.
• Antonios Theodotou, 1924–1926
• George Markides, 6 April 1926–31 March 1929.
• Themistoclis Dervis, 5 April 1929–28 September 1946.
• Ioannis Clerides, 1 June 1946–31 May 1949 (Last elected Mayor until 1986).
• Themistoclis Dervis, 1 June 1949–18 December 1959.

Post-Independence (1959-Present) (Greek)

• Diomedes Skettos, 1959–1960.
• George M. Spanos, 1960–1962; 1963–1964.
• Odysseas Ioannides, 1964–1970.
• Lellos Demetriades, December 1971–July 1974 (dismissed by the July 15 Coup).
• Christoforos Kithreotis, August 1974.
• Lellos Demetriades, October 1974–2001 (Elected in 1986; reelected in 1991 and 1996).
• Michalis Zampelas, 2002–2006.
• Eleni Mavrou, 2007–present.

Post-Independence (1959-Present) (Turkish)

• Dr. Tahsin Gözmen: 1958-1962
• Cevdet Mirata: 1962-1962
• Dr. Fuat Celalettin: 1962-1968
• Dr. Ziver Kemal: 1969-1976
• Mustafa Akıncı: 1976-1990
• Burhan Yetkili: 1990-1994
• Şemi Bora: 1994-2002
• Kutlay Erk: 2002- 2006
• Cemal M.Bulutoğluları: 2006 - present.

Landmarks

Nicosia lies roughly at the center of the island, with a rich history that can be traced back to the Bronze Age. It only became capital of the island in the 11th century AD. The Lousignians turned it into a magnificent city with a Royal Palace and over fifty churches. Today, it blends its historic past brilliantly with the bustle of a modern city. The heart of the city, enclosed by 16th century Venetian walls, is dotted with museums, ancient churches and medieval buildings preserving the nostalgic atmosphere of years past. Yet this old heart is split in two, leaving Nicosia the only capital city in the world to remain divided by force.

The new Nicosia developed outside the walls became a contemporary business and cultural center. Just a few miles away are enchanting places of interest such as Byzantine churches and monasteries, archaeological sites and charming villages.

The old walled city of Nicosia is unique and definitely the place to head for first. Encircled by strong fortress walls built by the Venetians in the 16th century, the enchanting old city is scattered with buildings and monuments of historical interest as well as little shops, cafés and tavernas.

To walk through the old city is to step backwards in time. Narrow streets and old houses with ornate balconies jut from weather beaten sandstone walls, smell of jasmine flowers in those long summer evenings, and craftsmen in small workshops practice trades unchanged for centuries. 'Laiki Yitonia' - Folk Neighborhood - is a pedestrian section, which has been carefully renovated to evoke the atmosphere of past days. The two main streets of old Nicosia, Ledra and Onasagorou, are lined with shops of every type, and both streets are pedestrian-only.

Although the city has been destroyed more than once by conquerors, there are still enough vestiges to enjoy the past. History is most strikingly experienced at the Venetian city wall, which was built between 1567 and 1570. The 4.5 metres thick wall once had three gates. The Famagusta Gate is now used as a cultural centre. Some other parts of the wall contain administrative offices. The historic heart of the city is clearly found inside the walls, but the modern city has grown beyond.

The heart of the city is Eleftheria (Freedom) Square, with the city hall, the post office and the library. Adjacent Ledra street leads to the most lively part of the old city with narrow streets, boutiques, and cafés. Agia Fanomereni is a church built in 1872, built with the remains of an old castle and a convent. Here lay the remains of the Archbishop and the other Bishops who were killed by the Turks during the 1821 revolt. The Palace of the Archbishop can be found at Arkhiepiskopos Kyprianos Square. Although it appears very old, it is in fact a wonderful imitation of typical Venetian style, built in 1956. Next to the palace is the late gothic St John Cathedral cathedral (1665) with picturesque frescos.

Nicosia is also known for its fine museums. The Archbishop's Palace contains a Byzantine museum where you can admire the largest collection of religious icons on the island. Leventis Municipal Museum Other interesting museums include the Folk Art Museum, National Struggle Museum (witnessing the rebellion against the British administration in the 1950s), Cyprus Ethnological Museum (house of dragoman Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios) and the Handicrafts Centre. The Nicosia Jewels Museum and the Municipal Arts Center are both well worth a visit. The 'Levention' Municipal Museum, with an imaginative presentation of the capital's history, was awarded the title "1991 European Museum of the Year" and it is the only historical museum of Nicosia and revives the old ways of life in the capital from ancient times up to our days. Not to be missed is the unique Cyprus Museum, housing the island's most important collection of Cypriot antiquities and treasures from the Neolithic Age to the Roman Period. In contrast to these ancient finds is the State Collection of Contemporary Art, and on the other side of town, just off the main Limassol road, is the Cyprus Handicraft Centre.

Another award winner is the city's renovated 'Pyli Ammochostou' - Famagusta Gate - one of the original entrances to the old city, which won the Europa Nostra award for its restoration. Many old churches are to be found in this part of town, and other places of interest.

Professional sports

Football is the most important sport in Cyprus, and Nicosia is home of two major teams of the island, AC Omonia and Apoel. The two teams dominate the Cypriot Football; Omonia has the record of championships and Apoel the record of the cups. Another team of Nicosia which had success in the past and plays in Cypriot First Division is Olympiakos Nicosia, whereas Enthoi Lakatamia was recently moved to the second division. All of these teams play at Neo GSP Stadium, the biggest in Cyprus, with capacity of 23,400. The other big stadium of Nicosia is Makario Stadium with capacity of 16,000 seats.

Omonia and Apoel have their own basketball and volleyball sections. Apoel is successful team in basketball as well, same with another team of the city, Keravnos Strovolos.In athletics the club of Nicosia is Gymnastic Club Pancypria (GSP)-the owner of the football stadium GSP. Also all the teams in the Futsal First Division are from Nicosia. There are also many other clubs in basketball, handball and other sports.

Nicosia hosted the 2000 ISSF World Cup Final about shooting events for the shotgun. Also the town hosted two basketball events; the European Saporta Cup in 1997 and the 2005 FIBA Europe All Star Game in Eleftheria Indoor Hall which is the biggest basketball stadium in Cyprus, with capacity of 6,500 seats. Lefkotheo is the volleyball stadium in Nicosia. Both stadiums are the Omonia's and APOEL home. Another sport even which was hosted in Nicosia were the Games of the Small States of Europe in 1989.

Culture

In 2006 the Manifesta Biennale was scheduled to be held in Nicosia for a duration of three months. The project was cancelled, however, with the overseas and local organisers blaming each other for its collapse.

The city also hosted the competition of Miss Universe 2000 in Eleftheria Indoor Hall.

Transportation

Nicosia International Airport has not been used since 1974 as it lies within the U.N. Buffer Zone separating the two parts of Nicosia.

There are many taxi companies in Nicosia. In order to take a taxi you have to call one of the taxi companies. The taxi will come pick you up from where you are. Besides the taxi companies, there is a taxi rank at the Eleftheria Square (City Centre) where you can find taxis twenty-four hours a day. Taxi fares are regulated by law and taxi drivers are obliged to use a taximeter.

Public transport within the city is limited to an aging and inefficient (but inexpensive) bus network operated by the subsidised Nicosia Bus Company [1]. Currently plans are underway to expand and modernise this with a European Union grant [2]. There is no train or metro system nor plans to develop one.

Between 1905 and 1951, Nicosia was a prominent station of the Cyprus Government Railway.

Twinnings

• Schwerin, Germany (1974)
• Athens, Greece (1988)
• Odessa, Ukraine (1996)
• Shiraz, Iran (1999)
• Bucharest, Romania (2004)
• Shanghai, China (2004)
• Barcelona, Spain (2004)
• Beirut, Lebanon (2004)
• Mexico City, Mexico (2004)
• Milan, Italy (2004)
• Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates (2004)

Collaborations

• Moscow, Russian Federation (2000)
• Nicosia, Sicily, Italy (2000)
• Qingdao, China (2001)
• Athens, Greece (2002, 2003)
• Helsinki, Finland (2003)
• Zagreb, Croatia (2004)

Famous Nicosians

• Tassos Papadopoulos, current president of the Republic of Cyprus since 2003.
• Glafkos Klerides, president of the Republic of Cyprus (1993-2003).
• George Vasiliou, president of the Republic of Cyprus (1988-1993).
• Ioannis Kasoulides, Member of the European Parliament.
• Dr Fazil Küçük former vice president of the Republic of Cyprus (1960-1963).
• Ferdi Sabit Soyer, prime minister of TRNC¹ (2005).
• Benon Sevan, ex-head of UN Oil for Food program.
• Nicolas Economou, composer.
• Alkinoos Ioannidis, singer.
• Michalis Hatzigiannis, singer.
• Stavros Konstantinou, singer, winner of Greek Super Idol.
• Okan Ersan, guitarist.
• Acar Akalin, singer, guitarist.
• Hüseyin Cakmak, cartoonist, writer.
• Alparslan Türkeş, a Turkish (Cypriot) nationalist politician, who served as a Deputy Prime Minister of Turkey
• Giannos Kranidiotis, a Greek diplomat and politician
• Levon Chilingirian a UK-based violinist
• Hussein Chalayan, a British Turkish Cypriot fashion designer
• Fatosh Tozaki, basketball player

¹The TRNC is not recognized internationally, but only by Turkey.

Gallery

Archbishop's Palace, Nicosia	The interior of Kykkos Monastery (Metochion Kykkou), Nicosia	The gardens of Kykkos Monastery (Metochion Kykkou), Nicosia	Municipal Theatre during Christmas
National Bank of Greece Building, Makariou Avenue, Nicosia	Plateia Eleftherias(Liberty Square),Nicosia	New Courts:Fusion of Traditional& Modern Architecture, Nicosia	Cyprus Electricity Authority Building in Nicosia
Licavitos Area, Nicosia	Typical Traditional Architecture, Nicosia	Detail of a Traditional Door, Nicosia	Church in the Old City
Restored traditional houses in the Old City	Corner in the Old City	Ledra Street: the end of the Greek portion of the city of Nicosia	Dining al fresco in the so-called Folkloric Area of Nicosia (Laiki Yeitonia)
Famagusta Gate (Pyli Ammochostou)	Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Residence

See also

• Republic of Cyprus
• List of Cypriot companies
• Cypriot Orthodox Church
• Divided cities
• Foreign relations of Cyprus
• Foreign relations of Northern Cyprus
• Organizational structure of Islamic religion in Cyprus (external link)
• Murder mile
• Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus
• Nicosia District
• United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus

References

• Cyprus Government Website - Towns and Population
• Nicosia Municipality website -History
• Nicosia Municipality website -Transportation
• Cyprus Island - Nicosia
• The World of Cyprus bilingual information portal with background on folk culture and Byzantine influences

External links

• Videos: Culture of Nicosia- in English
• English-language website for Municipality of Nicosia (Λευκωσια)
• Nicosia in Dark and White: a photo exhibition

Coordinates:

•  • [ e]  Municipalities of Cyprus

Nicosia District: Ayios Dhometios • Aglandjia • Engomi • Dali • Kythrea • Lakatamia • Latsia • Lefka • Nicosia • Morphou • Strovolos Limassol District: Ayios Athanasios • Yermasoyia • Kato Polemidhia • Limassol • Mesa Yitonia Larnaca District: Athienou • Aradhippou • Larnaca • Lefkara Famagusta District: Ayia Napa • Akanthou • Famagusta • Dherynia • Lefkoniko • Lysi • Paralimni Paphos District: Yeroskipou • Paphos • Peyia • Polis Kyrenia District: Karavas • Kyrenia • Lapithos

•  • [ e]  Capital cities for the European Union's Member States
Amsterdam Athens Berlin Bratislava Brussels Bucharest Budapest Copenhagen Dublin Helsinki Lisbon Ljubljana London Luxembourg City Madrid Nicosia Paris Prague Riga Rome Sofia Stockholm Tallinn Valletta Vienna Vilnius Warsaw